Nylon, the second most used synthetic fabric after polyester, faces a significant recycling challenge. According to Textile Exchange, less than 2% of nylon is recycled, often sourced from fishing nets or carpets. Annually, seven million tons of nylon are produced, frequently ending up in landfills as windbreakers, backpacks, and swimsuits.
To tackle this issue, the Nylon Materials Collective has brought together an innovative materials startup and numerous clothing brands. On November 25, Australian textile recycler Samsara Eco launched this partnership with the European Outdoor Group, representing over 150 brands and retailers.
Samsara Eco’s Enzymatic Innovation
Last summer, Samsara Eco secured a major deal to supply Lululemon for the next decade. The company is currently developing a nylon recycling plant set to open in a few years. Samsara Eco uses enzymes to break down nylon’s polymer chains, which are then reassembled into new nylon. “We integrate directly into the supply chain,” says Paul Riley, CEO of Samsara Eco. “Manufacturers don’t need to change their production processes or equipment.”
Samsara Eco focuses on two common types of nylon. Polyamide 6, found in swimsuits and stockings, has been recycled from fishing nets for years by companies like Econyl. The less commonly recycled type is polyamide 6,6, used in performance gear, backpacks, and hiking pants.
Challenges of Recycling and Collaboration
When mixed with materials like spandex to make leggings stretchy, recycling nylon becomes more complex. “We’re seeing the development of advanced recycling technologies capable of breaking down mixed fibers,” explains Adam Gardiner of Textile Exchange.
Sustainability advocates praise the collaborative approach of the new nylon collective, which aggregates demand among brands. “This lowers barriers for small and medium-sized enterprises to access high-performance recycled nylon that matches virgin material in strength and durability,” notes an expert.
However, not all types of nylon are equally easy to recycle, and the costs of setting up the necessary infrastructure can be a hurdle for some companies. Compared to materials like recycled polyester, recycled nylon is still in the development phase, which could slow its widespread adoption.
